Відео

Hi there, thanks for leaving this comment, we're happy to have helped you!

Thanks for commenting! We're glad you found it helpful :)

Hi there! I would try to clean it off with cleaner and then use silicone grease on the O-ring...and cross my fingers! I've done this a few times on the past and it's always been OK. We sell the cleaner here: www.plasticpipeshop.co.uk/Griffon-Pipe-Cleaner-500ml-Tin_p_6613.html We also sell silicone grease here: www.plasticpipeshop.co.uk/Silicone-Grease-30ml-Tub_p_7223.html

Hi there, yes that is right!

Hi there, the PTFE tape we sell is 12mm x 12mm x 0.076mm. www.plasticpipeshop.co.uk/Roll-PTFE-Tape_p_1700.html

Hi there! Metal to plastic threads can be made either way. Sometimes there is no choice if you are connecting to a piece of equipment, however if I had the choice, I would always use a plastic male to a female metal which greatly reduces the risk of over tightening and cracking the plastic as a result.

@@PlasticPipeShopTV Thanks for your reply and confirmation. Kind Regards

@@dewittstr8laces84 Happy to help!

For 2” pressure pvc threaded fittings (pool plumbing)

Hi there! It usually comes down to the users preference. But if applied correctly they can be equally as effective!

@@PlasticPipeShopTV thanks for the reply. I am installing 2” buried sch 40 pipe for a pool and some of the parts such as the bottom drains, the connection to the skimmers and the connection to the return water jets have threaded fittings usually requiring a male threaded to female slip adaptor and I want to do my best to ensure no leaks. I have heard some people using pvc glue on these treaded fitting that will be permanent. Other than the short working time creating risk is this wise or could it make things worse?

@@joejim2963 It's something I wouldn't do. I have tried it many years ago in the past and didn't get a good result. To be absolutely sure I would thread together with PTFE and then, ensuring there is no PFTE showing at the joint, use cleaner and perhaps some emery cloth and then smear a good skim of a sealant like sikaflex or similar, giving it at least 48 hours to dry before burying it or putting any water through it.

Hi there unfortunately we do not send out sample pieces. The shortest length of 1" clear pipe we have is 1m: www.plasticpipeshop.co.uk/1-Clear-PVC-Pipe-1m-Length_p_1657.html

Hi there, please see our video on taper and parallel threads here: ua-cam.com/video/2dxwoI4J_dY/v-deo.html

Hi there, unfortunately we don't have an installation video for this product.

Hi there, if it is a rigid pipe that you have and it is made from PVC then it's the same stuff whether it has PVC, PVCU or UPVC marked on it and so it should all be treated in the same way. In some parts of the world a purple primer / cleaner is used so it can be clearly seen, after the joint is made, that the correct procedure was followed. In other parts of the world a clear primer / cleaner is used. Primers/cleaners are solvents that are used to remove contaminants on the surface of the plastic, which may be from the manufacturing process or accumulated during storage, transit etc. It also serves to provide a better keyed surface for the glue/cement to "melt" into. Some manufacturers have their own formulae for the primer/cleaner, one of which is MEK, but they all do the same job. The glue is actually a thick solvent compound which works by melting the two surfaces together, which is why the process is called "solvent welding". There are many different manufacturers of solvent cement, calling it many different things but like the cleaner, it all basically just the same job. Some are thicker or thinner than others, and some are thixotropic, which means although they may appear quite thick, when under pressure (Ie pushed together as a joint) they become thinner which enables them to fill any voids in the joint. The only other processes you need to follow are : 1. ensuring that the end of the pipe is chamfered, as otherwise it can act as a knife edge as it goes into the socket and push all the glue in front of it 2. If it is old, reused or excessively dirty, then emery cloth should be used on it before the cleaner. 3. That when pushed together, the pipe and socket are not twisted, as this can potentially lead to more void spaces in the joint. If you need to adjust the pipe once it's in the socket, do it immediately after it has been fully pushed in, and then hold it in a position for a few seconds.

Hi there, there isn't any tolerance in the unions as the O-ring needs to sit against the face, but depending on how the pipe system is clipped or supported, there is usually enough movement in the pipe system to allow for a slight difference in length. If you are fitting new unions, the best way is to split them and cement the face section on (remembering to put the union ring onto the pipe first!) and then measure between the two faces.

@@PlasticPipeShopTV Thanks Bob , I use the griffon wdf05 glue for spa pool pipes. But I find that the glue sets pretty much instantly. So it's very hard/impossible to do minor adjustments. Is there a glue that has a slightly longer working time 20 Seconds would do . Say for example to give enough time to insert this union piece then tighten the unions ?

@@leepeart3918 WDF-05 is a fast setting cement. If you use a Griffon 100 It will give you a bit more time; however many spa fittings are ABS rather than PVC (although they can be glued together with PVC glue) and ABS has a much faster set time which gives you no time at all for minor adjustments no matter what glue you use.

Hi there, male and female threads of the same size (i.e. 1/2", 2", 4" etc) will be compatible as the male thread needs to thread into the female thread.

Hi there, in terms of using lubricant, you would want to avoid anything that will attack or soften the plastic - we would suggest perhaps one of the WRAS approved ones used for rubber seal pressure and drainage fittings as these do not attack the plastic in any way and can be easily washed off. Whether using a lubricant or not, the taper inside the socket makes it hit and miss whether you will be able to get the pipe right into the socket as far as the landing/stop. When cementing, the pipe cement "melts" the plastic and helps push it to the landing / stop. If you are using a lubricant to dry fit, by the time you have pulled the pipe out, cleaned it and added cement, the mark is usually wiped away. You could of course mark the pipe an exact distance away from the socket edge (25mm / 1") and use that as a guide, but from experience I have always found that more hassle than it's worth. If marking for socket depth, the best way is to measure the socket depth and mark the pipe after you have cleaned it, being careful when applying cement that you don't go over that part. Lubricant could also be useful when you need to make sure that a join is cemented at a specific angle. It's very useful to mark the sides of the two fittings so you can line them up when you cement them, as any twisting to position once the pipe is fully in the socket can compromise the integrity of the cemented joint. This could certainly be done with a lubricant as the pipe doesn't have to go in the full depth of the socket to enable you to line it up and mark it.

Hi, here is a more recent video about pipe sizes: ua-cam.com/video/OoImXonxAlw/v-deo.html.

Hi there, we only sell to the UK unfortunately.

Hi there, yes we sell 2 inch versions of the L-ports and T-ports. We ship to the UK. You can browse here: www.plasticpipeshop.co.uk/Inch-PVC-Valves_c_1146.html

Thank you

Saya tidak bisa mengaksesnya untuk membeli, apakah ada di toko aliexpress / shopee / tokopedia / lazada ?

@@user-kt9ht5ki6y Hi, unfortunately we only sell from our website and from our shop on eBay to the UK.

Hi there, thanks for commenting. In pipe terminology, a nipple is simply a male thread. There are three types: a threaded nipple is a short piece of pipe with a thread on both ends; a PT nipple is plain to threaded (PT), meaning that there is a thread on only one end of the piece of pipe; and a hex nipple is a moulded fitting that has a thread either side of a band that is sometimes a hexagon, but can also be an octagon or other shape that makes it easy to grip. In other industries a nipple can refer to any "male" protrusion that is attached onto, such as a grease nipple.

Hi there, thanks for the question! We often see comments about not using PTFE on plastic threads, but they don't give a clear reason why and often they're just parroting things they've heard from elsewhere. A lot of professional pipe fitters choose PTFE to seal pipe threads. The caution to use it may just be because it tends to make plastic threads much more slippery as it the same as Teflon, which is what the non-stick surface of pans is made of. There is a risk of overtightening the threads due to this, and manufacturers provide plastic fittings with a metal reinforcing ring to help with this. We'd recommend only tightening hand-tight with, at most, one or two turns after that. Please get in touch if you have more questions!

@@PlasticPipeShopTV Thanks for the quick reply. Tapered pipe threads are supposed to be self-sealing. However, iron and steel pipe can be difficult to thread down until sealing, so lubricating sealers are needed. Conversely, PVC is easy to thread down to sealing. I've run 250 psi through 1 inch, pvc fittings, no ptfe, without leaks. I was really wondering if I was just lucky. I do tighten them well past the recommended point. There's a lot of opinions about PTFE tape use. As you've said, some are parroting things they've heard. My grandfather was a union steamfitter. He used some cord soaked in something. He'd never believed in PTFE or use PVC outside of sewage lines. There are lots of hold-overs from "well proven methods" irrespective whether they are applicable to new technologies. eg using gasket sealer on synthetic rubber gaskets and putty on new unions. I think maybe early on in the "PVC fittings industry" when the mfg controls on thread quality wasn't so great, a sealer was needed. But in 2023, I think PVC thread quality is high enough that sealers aren't needed when sticking with the same fittings mfg or not threading into metal pipe. But, again, I have no direct evidence and my opinion should be considered a suspicion and not fact.

@@GrandActionPotential In my opinion, you were very lucky! In 20 years of pipefitting I never heard of anyone being able to thread two PVC fittings together and get a seal without some sort of thread sealant. It is true there are several different types of thread sealant ranging from tape to cord to hemp (often applied with a PTFE or similar paste). As long as it doesn't attack the material a lot of it comes down to personal preference. One of the issues I have often seen is users "overloading" plastic threads with too much PTFE tape / cord etc. which then runs the risk of cracking the fitting they are being threaded into.

Hi there, if you are measuring PVC pressure pipe, then it is best to use a measuring tape or calliper to take the millimetre measurement of the outside diameter of the pipe. If your pipe is measuring around 8 inches, then it could be a 20mm pipe, and you'll need a 20mm clamp. Hope this helps!

Hi there, we sell these valves here: www.plasticpipeshop.co.uk/Inch-PVC-Valves_c_1146.html

Hi Keith, thanks for the comment and feedback! We're happy to help.

Hi Sam, thanks so much for the feedback, we are so glad to hear how well your project went! We're always happy to help🙂

Hi plastic pipes I have recently purchased one on these ( about a month ago) spring double check valves and fitted it but it seems loose and leaking badly, what might I be doing wrong and/or do you have a video link of one being fitted, I have scoured the internet without much success? Regards Mike H.

Hi there, we're happy to help! The insert should be 25mm for a 25mm pipe.

@@PlasticPipeShopTV thank you, very much appreciated

Hi there, the price depends on the size required. You will be able to find prices on our website for imperial and metric sizes: www.plasticpipeshop.co.uk/PVC-Pipe-and-Fittings_c_492.html

Happy to help! Thanks for commenting.